Tuesday, July 17, 2012

July 14, 2012 Getting to know the Turks


July 14, 2012 
Getting to know the Turks

It’s Saturday night and I’m back in my usual blogging spot, the couch of the apartment we are staying in, kids snoozing in the bedroom like good little babies, hubby out partying it up with the groom & other guys.  Maybe it’s time for a little explanation into our Turkey trip.  A friend of a good friend of Tony’s, Deutron, who has become a good friend himself, was marrying a very nice Turkish girl named Evin.  We were invited to their wedding.  How could we pass up sharing our friend’s important day…esp. when it’s in one of the countries on my bucket list?  Oh yeah, Tony was also one of the groomsmen so we really couldn’t pass it up. 

Here are the story players:
Deutron & Evin – Groom & Bride, live in Watsonville, CA
Rebecca & Nate – Friends, live in Berkeley, CA
Segar & Avni – Friends, live in Baltimore, MD
Ray & Dawn – 2nd parents to Deutron, live in Milpitas, CA
Alison, Novi, Fiduce – Friends of Deutron, living all over US
Posi (Positron), Nibobby (Neutron), Elec (Electron) – siblings of Deutron (their father was a scientist ;) 
Various other family from Turkey & Ethiopia

So it’s been a fun, crazy, interesting & HOT few days.  The good & the bad aspects of my not writing at the end of each day are that I can’t possibly remember everything or have the enthusiasm to write about every little thing that happened but then some fun or at least randomly interesting details are forgotten, lost or untold.  Not as much to read but not as much to read J In my pre-parenthood travel days I would write at the end of each day, late late into the night/morning but alas sleep is much more precious to me now!

Our little apartment is quite sweet, modern but retaining the feel that we are in a different country.  We are on the top floor and have to climb 6 flights of narrow stone steps to reach it.  We have a little kitchenette that we thought we’d use but aren’t really.  The little fridge is key for milk for Teagan and beer for us adults.  Probably the best feature is the air conditioner which is absolutely essential here, at least for this San Francisco girl.  Same goes for my babies who have been melting and miserable when we go out, often just turning into a puddle of sweaty, sleeping baby in the stroller.  What do they care about the mosques and bazaars?  Poor angels.  Tony & I have questioned our parenting decision to put them through this several times.  After being out for the day, cranky, testy, sleeping, not eating, we come back to the apt and the cool air revives them like a magic.  I’ll take Teagan into the little box shower with me to rinse off the sweat and sun block and further revive.  Soon enough though we are heading back out into the heat, which subsides a little after the sun sets but not much, to see more sights, get some food, meet the group for some wedding events etc.

The Spice is Nice

Thursday we made our way to the tram station, a 15 minute walk along the main Taksim shopping street with all the big clothes, shoes, jewelry, etc. shops including Gap, Swatch, United Colors of Benetton to name a few I recognized.  Then down a long, steep narrow road where smaller, local boutiques are located as well as some little eateries, many with the big vertical meat things they shave off of for wraps etc., house ware shops, bakery, fresh squeezed orange juice carts, mini-markets displaying some very nice produce out front, a little barber shop, etc.  Plus lots of cats lounging, begging for food, etc.  The trams are nice (clean & air conditioned!) and come frequently.  It costs 2 TL (Turkish Lire) to ride which is about $1.50’ish.  They ride above ground which gives us a good view of the areas in between our stops.  We decided to hit up the Spice Bazaar after getting a mid-morning snack of the most amazingly & ridiculously yummy (read: most definitely terribly fattening) buttery philo thing filled with a white cheese.  The trouble with it was that it was neither too rich nor too salty so I could easily see myself  gaffling enough to surely clog my arteries in one sitting.  Think of a moist croissant in the shape a raisin Danish but as big around as your face and about 1 1/2” thick.  A guy wearing plastic gloves (to protect from being burned but also because his hands would be so slippery from the buttery goodness) slices it up with a half circle knife with a handle as the other part of the circle.  I know there’s a name for this kitchen utensil but I don’t know it.  Et voila.  Not sure what kind of cheese was inside, it looked like cottage cheese but wasn’t, and it was sparse, just enough for flavor.  I think you can get one of these with meat inside too.  I should figure out what the name of it is, I see them everywhere here.  Moaning in delight as we devoured the snack, we made our way through the narrow, curving streets, making us feel like we were in some spider web, up this way, down that way, cars & delivery trucks carefully but swiftly making their way with barely enough clearance, often stopping or backing up to let another maneuver through or make a turn.  There were lots of shops here too, lots of textiles with more bolts of colorful fabric than I think I’ve ever seen in one place; piles of scarves (since so many of the women here need to cover their heads if not their entire bodies save their eyes), etc.  We asked several times for directions to the Spice Bazaar since we didn’t yet have a map but no one really spoke English…nor seemed to know where the bazaar even was!  We began to feel like we were in a candid camera video where each person tells us different directions and we seem to be going in circles.  After maybe 15 frustrating minutes of that we finally found the bazaar which was a covered “T” shaped market lined with stalls containing mostly spices, teas, Turkish delight, coffee/tea cups/supplies (it’s very unique & specialized here) and some other souvenir stuff thrown in for good measure.  Aside from the colorful mounds of powders and crazy piles of squares & bars of Turkish Delight, there is another common item for sale in the bazaars and Everywhere, the nazar boncuk or famous ‘evil eye.’  It’s a pretty dark blue circle with a small white circle inside then a light blue circle inside that and finally a small black circle – it looks like an eye.  It’s quasi creepy but also kinda abstract art looking.  It comes from an age-old superstition, clearly persistent today apparently throughout the country, whereby some people are thought to carry within them a malevolent force that can be transmitted to others via their eyes.  The eye charms (nazar boncuk) are used to reflect the evil look back to the originator.  You find them as charms, beads and emblazoned on all kinds of artifacts.  I bought one that will hang on the wall and has a large silver butterfly in the design.  Tyler laid his eyes on a little drum with a Turkish design on the base and so soon he was happily drumming away in the stroller as we headed out J 

Fish Boats

On our way to meet the group we passed the New (only 400 years old –hah!) Mosque or Yeni Cami.  We took a brief look around the forecourt with all the columns and painted dome ceilings on the perimeter of the square, took some pictures and moved on without going inside.  It was cool but nothing to spend much time on.  Perhaps if we’d gone inside I’d have more to say about it.  It was midday and the sun was in full force and Tyler was hungry so we got him a donner kabap (that rotisserie meat thing in a pita with lettuce & tomato and a yogurt drink called Ayran which all the Turks drink to go along with) and then we sat in the shade of the Balik Ekmek (fish bread) cafes where I bought a canned ice tea to ear our seat.  Basically there’s these ornate boats floating right along the dock and on them is this giant grill where they’re cooking up fillets of fish (not exactly sure what kind or if they are caught right there or what) which they slap on a roll and pass across to a “waiter” on the dock and into the hands of the orderer.  I’m not so much eating fish these days and even if I was it didn’t look too appetizing to me but it wasn’t stinky and lots of people seemed to be enjoying it.  Tony went off to find a beer but ended up getting lost so I was sitting there with Tyler & Teagan for upwards of an hour, feeling the pressure of taking up a valuable table under the shade for patrons actually buying the café’s specialty while fending off children trying to sell us gum & other junk candy.  After Tyler told me for the 3rd time he had to go peepee, instead of telling him again “ok, daddy will be back soon and then we can go” I just packed us up and hoped Tony would wait for us there when he came back and didn’t find us.  I headed us toward the big “WC” sign in an underground walkway and there we ran into Tony! 

Row, row, row your boat…

We met up with some of the group and did some negotiating with one of the many roaming boat tour salesmen (who incidentally had spent some time doting over Teagan while we were sitting at the fish bread café) and were soon cruising the Bosphorous strait which runs from the Sea of Marmara to the Black Sea.  Istanbul is on both sides but one is on the Asian continent and the other the European.  Our ride was around 2 hours, we sat up top covered but open and the wind felt great despite the blazing heat.  On our left, on the European shore, we passed several grandiose palaces, described in our tour book from a French writer’s travelogue as ‘a line of palaces white as snow, placed at the edge of the sea on marble docks’ and this description is as accurate as it is evocative.  I felt like I was in France or even Italy!  The boat was playing some crazy, loud Turkish club beats which had us all up & dancing off & on through the ride…we actually did hear Katy Perry’s California Girls too which really had us girls up dancing & feeling proud!  Then, the highlight of the ride, we’d heard rumors dolphins swim in the strait but that just seemed silly.  Well, silly or not, it’s true and after we turned around at the Golden Gate’s  silver colored little sister and as we were passing by the Kiz Kulesi or Maiden Tower (a small island with a pseudo lighthouse and ritzy restaurant inside – more on that later) there they suddenly were.  I might have screamed out, pointing, and everyone on the boat jumped up to check the 2 beauties out.  How is it that dolphins in the wild just seem so magical?  I remember seeing them in New Zealand once, on a ferry ride at the bottom of the south island and I was just as awe struck and taken by them then as now.  So graceful and somehow ethereal, as if they were a mythical creature like the unicorn.  Just as I was recovering from the excitement we saw another little cluster of them, including what seemed like (in my fantasy mood) a baby!  I got a few pictures but of course nothing captures seeing it in person.

Once off the boat, still feeling the swaying motion beneath me, we walked across the Galata bridge from the top of which there are many, many fishing lines in the water  as well as a an endless line of fish restaurants below.  We headed to Galata Tower which unfortunately was up a very steep hill (vs. the very long sets of stairs we avoided because of our stroller) which Novi was so kind (or stupid) to offer to push said stroller up.  There was a lift inside the tower so we all went up but once I saw the narrow viewing deck that surrounded the top of the tower I opted to stay inside the café on the next floor down.  There were still windows all around inside the café so I could see the amazing 360 view of the city, with all the minarets dotting the skyline. 

Feast

In lieu of a rehearsal dinner, the bride’s parents hosted a dinner for all the guests who travelled from outside of Turkey for the wedding which basically consisted of a bunch of us from the US and a few from Ethiopia.  After going back to the apt for a rinse off & clothes change we took a cab to this area of side by side by side restaurants with tons of outdoor seating (again reminiscent of France or Italy) and a small cobblestone walkway between where street vendors roamed with armloads of stuff you don’t need…unless you count the cigar guy who managed to sell a nice Cuban to Tony J  There was a 1st, 2nd and 3rd course as seems to be the norm here and it was all DELISH!  When we sat down there were all these small plates of – lucky for me – vegetarian starters including fava beans, a stewed greens mixture, a yummy green salad and a few others I can’t even remember now!  There was a little plate of sardines which I avoided though ;)  My vegetarian main meal was to die for, a cast iron skillet full of eggplant, mushrooms, potatoes, tomatoes, peas, favas and herbs.  Tony got some whole fish which kinda grossed me out.  The alcohol was flowing; esp. the Turkish drink Raki (pronounced rah-coo) which is like Ouzo flavor-wise (anise) but like Absinthe in that you add water and the appearance turns from vodka-like to a cloudy white.  There were “musicians” coming around to play for the patrons of the various restaurants and they put on quite a show, getting guests up one by one to dance with the main guy, doing silly, crazy, flirty moves.  I think everyone got pulled up there but me since I was holding Teagan in my lap most of the time, so I got videos of everyone else.  It was a lot of fun.  The night flew by and before we knew it, as happens most of the time in Turkey we’ve found, it was LAAAATE & it was obvious most of the childless/unmarried people were going to be going out after the dinner so we got a cab and called it a night.  Probably for the best.









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